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| PUPPY / BEGINNER CLASS HOMEWORK |
| Puppy Kindergarten / Beginner Obedience Class Week 2 Homework You are the trainer! You get what you and your family put into your dog. Everyone in the household must agree to work together and come up with ONE set of rules for your dog. Each family member must use the same hand signals and verbal commands. Always begin and end your training session on a positive note. Please be patient and don’t train if you are in a bad mood! The Clicker: The timing of the click is very important. The click marks the correct behavior and the reward must be given immediately after the click. Remember, the click ends the behavior, so your dog should get up after you click! Think: Click, treat. Click, treat! SIT: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog sit politely beside you. Hold one treat under your thumb with your palm facing up. Slowly lure your hand over your dog’s nose and up back over your dog’s head. Keep your hand at dog’s nose level to prevent your dog from jumping. As the dog’s head rocks back, their behind should go into a sit. Immediately click & treat (now called C & T) when your dog sits. Repeat several times and try luring your dog to sit in several different locations around your house. Every time your dog offers this behavior (even if you didn’t lure them into position) C & T! STAND: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog standing still. With one treat, lure your dog into a sit (as explained above). When dog sits, do NOT C & T, instead quickly place your palm at your dog’s nose, slowly luring the dog from a sit into a stand. C & T! Your hand should be flat at the dog’s nose - and keep it stationary. We don’t want your dog walking, but simply standing up in place. Repeat several times and try luring your dog to stand in several different locations around your house. CONTROLLED WALKING: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog walking politely beside you. Hold your leash & clicker in your right hand and a treat in your left hand. Stand directly in front of your dog and place the treat at their nose. Run backwards 4 - 5 steps and encourage your dog to follow by keeping the treat low and in front of their nose to prevent jumping. When the dog has followed you for 4 - 5 steps, C & T! Slowly increase to about 15 steps. Keep this exercise short, exciting, & fun! Practice in every room of your home and outside. Once your dog is following you, add the pivot. Show your dog the treat (as explained above) and after taking 4 - 5 steps backwards, turn to your right so your dog is on your left side. Hold your hand close to your left thigh and keep your dog focused on the food. When your dog is beside your left leg, C & T! ATTENTION: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog’s attention on you. Stand up straight. Touch a treat to your dog’s nose and then move the treat between your eyes. When your dog looks up, C & T! Slowly increase the amount of time your dog is looking up at you by talking quietly to your dog. This will help keep your dog’s focus on you and tell him he’s doing the right thing! This week at home, work on getting 5 seconds of solid eye contact. RECALL: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog come when called. Get your dog’s attention on you by saying his name and “COME” in an excited voice. C & T on the FIRST step your dog takes toward you. Your dog should love to come to you, so make it fun, be exciting, and give lots of praise every time! NEVER call your dog to do something they don’t like! (such as nail trimming, going into their crate, etc.) In those cases, just go and get your dog. A fun recall game (and a great way to tire your dog out!): Have one person at each end of a hallway or room all armed with treats and call your dog back and forth. Get your dog used to listening to EVERY member of the family! OFF: The goal of this exercise is to teach your dog to respect your space. Hold a fist full of treats at your dog’s nose and wait. Keep your fist still! It is normal for your dog to paw, lick, and chew on your hand. The second your dog stops nosing your hand and pulls away, C & T! If during this exercise your dog nibbles your hand too hard, tell him “OUCH!” If he pulls away, C & T. SURFACE TRAINING: The goal is to teach your dog to not fear surfaces, etc. It is very important for your dogs to learn how to walk and be comfortable on various surfaces. Practice walking them on concrete, bricks, gravel, uneven surfaces, up ramps, stairs, etc. This week, work on exposing your dog to as many surfaces as possible. Work your obedience commands on various surfaces - make sure your dog will behave on a tile floor, a wet floor, etc. The more you expose them to in a positive and gentle manner, the better and more confidently they’ll live life! DOGGIE MASSAGE: The goal is to have your dog comfortable when handled. We all want to have a dog that we can safely handle. Practice giving your dog daily massages - touch their face, open their mouth, touch their ears, legs, feet, toes, nails, tails, stomachs, etc. You want to keep your hands nice and slow and keep your dog very calm. They should enjoy their massage and it will help them feel comfortable with you handling their entire body. GENTLE RESTRAINT: The goal is to teach your dog to accept being restrained. Every dog will need to be restrained sometime in their life. At a grooming appointment, vet appointment, or for you to trim their nails, clean their ears, etc. We need to teach our dogs to accept this restraint. Start by just holding your puppy - if they squirm, wiggle, or fuss, just ignore them and wait for them to be calm. Once they are calm, C & T and release them. COLLAR WORK: The goal is to teach your dog to accept their collar. Many dogs dislike wearing their collar or being touched around their collar. To teach your dog to accept their collar being touched, put on, taken off, or grabbed, we practice this exercise. Start by simply touching your dogs collar, then C & T. Work up until you can handle your dog by their collar with no fuss or fight. Things to Remember & Other Training Tips! We all want our dogs to listen & respond to us the FIRST time we ask them. In order for this to happen, it is very important at this early stage to not speak to them at all. So remember, right now: TRAINING IS SLIENT! USE NO WORDS TO COMMAND YOUR DOG!! However, lots of praise and “goooood dog!” is encouraged! In the next few weeks we will teach you how to introduce words to your dog. Training should seem like a fun way to interact with your dog. Keep training sessions short and varied. Don’t follow the same routine every time you work with your dog! Train your dog several times a day, not just during training sessions. Train during the evening when you are watching television. When a commercial comes on, do some sits, stands, and a few recalls. Vary the food rewards you use. Use a variety of goodies or a favorite toy! Puppy Kindergarten / Beginner Obedience Class Week 3 Homework Reward good behavior! Even if you haven’t asked your dog, tell him you like what he’s doing if he offers a polite behavior by using a C & T, verbal praise, and patting. SIT / STAND: All week you’ve practiced luring your dog into this position by having a treat in your hand. We don’t want our dogs to only work for food. This week, try it without the treat in your hand! Still offer the hand signal and C & T when the dog obeys. STAND FOR EXAM: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog tolerate you or a stranger giving him an exam. He should be calm and stand still. Your dog should be comfortable being examined by a groomer, the vet, or by you & your family. For this exercise, ask your dog to “Stand.” Have a really great treat in your hand and allow your dog to nibble on it. While he’s are focusing on the treat, take your free hand and run it down your dog’s back. Once he is comfortable with this, begin to lift his leg, touch his ears, face, stomach, tail, etc. Keep your hands very slow and calm - it will make your dog feel more secure. DOWN: The goal of this exercise is to have your dog lying down beside you. Ask your dog to sit but do not C & T. With a treat in your hand and your palm facing down, slowly lure your dog’s head down toward the floor by bringing your treat from his nose to his toes. When he is lying down, C & T! Remember, with clicker training, you don’t have to see the complete behavior all at once. C & T any movement down your dog makes! CONTROLLED WALKING: Hold your leash & clicker in your right hand, treat in your left hand. Start out walking backwards and pivot so your dog is on your left side. C & T every 4 or 5 steps as long as your dog is not pulling! ATTENTION: Hold the treat at your nose like you’ve been practicing. Now we want to teach your dog he gets the C & T when he looks in your eyes, not at the treat! Hold the treat 3 inches away from your face. Your dog will look at the treat. Allow him to figure it out on his own! Don’t call or talk to the dog, have patience and when he looks in your eyes, C & T! RECALL: Practice these fun recall games everywhere - inside, outside, at the park, etc! 1. Popcorn Recall - Have two people call your dog back and forth and make sure your dog is rewarded for listening to your command, not just running to you out of habit! 2. Tunnel recall - have a group of friends line up and call your dog through that tunnel of people!!! WAIT: The goal of this exercise is to teach your dog to wait for a command. We’ll start by teaching your dog to wait for food from your hand. Take your dog’s collar with your left hand and hold a flat palmed right hand with treat & clicker about a foot away. When your dog stops pulling for the treat, C & T! We will apply the wait command to other situations. DROP IT: The goal of this exercise is to teach your dog to drop an object. Have two items, one great item and one so-so. Give the so-so item to your dog so he takes it in his mouth. Then, offer him either a second (better)toy or a food treat. Once he drops the item in his mouth, click and give him the other item. Pet Nutrition - do you know what your pet is eating? The most popular pet food (Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, Purina, etc.) are all owned by major human food & product production companies such as Proctor & Gamble, Heinz, Nestle, Mars, and Colgate Palmolive. These companies make their pet food from the waste of their human products. Although all pet food is regulated by the FDA and AAFCO, most contains sub-par ingredients that provide little or no healthy ingredients. The pet food industry grosses $15 Billion a year!! How do I know if my food is healthy? Knowledge is power. Know how to read your food label. Find out what your food really contains. The ingredients are listed in order of quantity - so if you have a food with “corn” as the first ingredient, and “corn meal” as the second ingredient - the food contains mostly corn! (Meaning your dog is getting mostly fiber and will poop - A LOT!) Your dog is a carnivore and needs meat, followed by grains, fruits, and vegetables. Your first 2 or 3 ingredients should always be high-quality protein - NOTHING LESS! Look for Whole Ingredients. Your pet food label should list healthy, whole ingredients such as: Beef, Chicken, Salmon, Sweet Potatoes, etc. If you see anything with byproducts stay away!!! Byproducts are the catch-all terms of the pet food industry. They contain little nutrients and include the animal parts such as heads, feet, entrails, lungs, spleens, kidneys, pus, stomachs, blood, etc. Vegetable byproducts include sweepings off of the floor, sawdust, rotted parts, etc. Byproducts also contain other substances such as cancerous tissue from carcasses, plastic foam packaging containing spoiled meat from the supermarkets, ear tags, and animals from the “4-D’s” (dead, dying, diseased, or disabled animals not fit for human consumption. Avoid generic terms (if you don’t know what it is, don’t feed it!) Generic terms such as “meat” are a bad sign to have in your food. Meat includes euthanized companion animals, zoo animals, road kill, etc. If it’s so gross, why does my pet eat it? It is not unusual for a pet to reject a high-quality food and prefer something with sup-par ingredients. Why? Low-quality food is sprayed with a combination of refined animal fat, lard, old restaurant kitchen grease, and other oils to make the food palatable. Animals love the taste of this sprayed fat, which is usually rancid or heavily preserved. This is extremely difficult for your pet to digest and can lead to an excess of health problems such as diarrhea, gas, bad teeth & breath, etc. Every dog I know eats Purina, what’s so bad about it? Some pets will do fine on a sub-par diet. Just like people, some can eat McDonald’s every day, drink, and smoke and still live to 100! But most of us can’t without having weight problems, skin problems, and numerous other health issues. Your pet is the same way. Did you know that most allergies, ear & skin infections, weight problems, stomach upsets, etc. are food related? Many behavior problems are linked to food - most sub-par dog food contains sugar, leading to a hyperactive dog! Your dog should look and feel good - shiny coat, bright eyes, and happy belly (meaning they only poop once or twice a day.) If this doesn’t describe your dog, try switching to a better food! Your pet may be one who can outlive a bad diet, but why take a chance? But my vet told me to feed Science Diet, how can they be wrong? Most veterinarians are not versed in nutrition. In fact, a good family friend who is a practicing vet explained that her only nutrition course in vet school was a two hour seminar with a sales rep from Science Diet who explained why their food was the only one to feed. Your vet gets great perks from the company to push the product. (Translation - they get paid to endorse the food!) I need to switch my food - what should I feed? Some great food companies manufacture high-quality food such as Solid Gold, Wellness, Artemis, Merrick, Innova, Evo, & California Natural. Basically everything we carry here! We make it a point to only carry food we have fed and will continue to feed our own dogs. Feel good about what you feed your pet. If you can make a home-cooked diet for them, even better! It’s cheaper and easy to do! Ask us for more information, we will happily point you in the right direction! Puppy Kindergarten / Beginner Obedience Class Week 4 Homework Ready to add words? If your dog is responding to the hand signal of a command at least 85% of the time, it is time to add the verbal cue at the same time as the hand signal. For example: give your dog the “palm up” hand signal and say “sit” one time. When your dog sits, C & T! Remember! only give the verbal command one time! OFF / SIT / STAND / DOWN: Work on adding the verbal cue of the command as you give the appropriate hand signal. C & T each desired behavior! ATTENTION: Hold the treat at arms length away from your face - when your dog is looking in your eyes, C & T! Your goal is to work up to 30 seconds of continuous eye attention. This is done by softly talking to your dog while they are looking in your eyes. Smile at your dog, and keep them nice and focused on you. If they look away, say “Uh - Oh!” to get their attention back! RECALL: Practice these fun recall games everywhere - inside, outside, at the park, etc! 1. Have someone gently hold your dog in a different room or out of your sight - call your dog and when they come, praise them - hug them - treat them! 2. Hide & Seek: Have someone gently hold your dog while you run and hide. Call your dog and allow them to find you - give him a treat when he does! Repeat with everyone hiding! MEETING & GREETING: Hold a fist full of treats at dog’s nose and move it up above your head. If your dog jumps, tell them “OFF” and take a quick step back. When your dog touches the floor, C & T! Remember! Four paws on the floor! This is tough, but keep at it! WAIT: Put a treat and your clicker in your right hand and gently hold your dog’s collar with your left hand. When your dog stops pulling to get the treat, C & T! Your dog not pulling at all? GREAT! Add the command “WAIT.” Work with the dog’s food bowl & toys. LEAVE IT: This is an exercise to keep your dog safe and out of trouble! Your dog will never get an item that you deem as a “leave-it” item! Place an item such as a tissue, paper towel, or other tempting forbidden thing to your dog under your shoe. (No open toed shoes for this exercise!) Wait for your dog to stop trying to get it and then reward! Toss the treat a short distance from your foot to give yourself time to pick it up. UH - OH: This negative marker simply tells your dog he’s not earning a C & T. Your dog is not a robot and will not always follow every command you give. If you ask for a command and your dog doesn’t obey, tell him “UH - OH!” and ignore him for a few seconds. Then try again. Things to Remember & Other Training Tips! A tired dog is a good dog! Make sure your dog has plenty of daily exercise. Training sessions should be incorporated into your daily routine with your dog. Each time you interact with your dog, he is learning something….. whether you are aware of it or not! Take advantage of your time together and teach him what you want him to know. For example, does your dog jump up on you and you laugh and baby talk to him while you pat him? Congratulations, you’ve just taught your dog to jump! Grooming Basics: If you groom your own dog - follow the guidelines below: Shampoo - make sure you use a high-quality dog shampoo with natural ingredients. Do not over-bathe - it can dry out the skin and lead to chronic skin problems. Parasites - topical flea/tick treatments (Frontline, K9 Advantix, etc.) are toxins put into your pet’s bloodstream. They still have to be bitten by the flea or tick in order for the parasite to die so your pet can still receive flea/tick-born diseases! Look for natural flea/tick treatments. Ear Cleaning - For a simple and inexpensive ear cleaner - mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water. Nail clipping - keep your dog’s nails as short as possible. Long nails are painful for your dog to walk on and cause stress on your dog’s joints and bones. The nail has a blood supply vein called a quick that runs down the center - if it is cut into it will cause extreme pain & bleeding. Anal glands - some dogs are able to express their own glands when they go to the bathroom. You will notice your dog scooting it’s bum on the floor or a smell from their bottom if they are having a problem with their glands. Brushing - make sure you have the proper tools for your dog’s coat. Your brush and comb should glide through your dog’s entire body without getting caught or hung-up. If your dog (or cat!) has matting, it will need to be dealt with immediately by a professional groomer. Mats are very painful and dangerous to your pet - they lead to hot spots, infections, and parasites. If your pet is matted they cannot regulate their body temperature and their skin underneath will begin to decay. Proper nutrition, brushing, and care will keep your pet mat-free. If you have a professional grooming it should include: Two shampoos with products suited for your pet’s skin and coat type Parasite / skunk odor check Towel and fluff dry with dryers Cleaning of the eyes and ears - plucking the ear hair canal if needed Anal gland check and express if needed Nail clipping or grinding Complete brush-out Scissor work, clipper work, and styling. When does my dog need to be groomed? How early can they be groomed? All dogs have different grooming needs. You can safely groom a dog after 8 weeks of age. A good guideline is as follows: Short-haired dogs: (Labs, Boxers, Pugs, etc.) Brushed once per week with a rubber curry brush, slicker brush, and steel comb. Ears cleaned once per week (twice to three times a week in humid weather.) Nails trimmed once per month Bathed every 8 - 12 weeks. Teeth brushed as often as possible. Flea / Tick check: daily during prime parasite season (Spring through late Fall!) Medium / long-haired dogs: (Poodles, Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Setters, Bichons, Terriers, etc.) Brushed three times per week with a slicker brush, and steel comb. Ears cleaned once per week (twice to three times a week in humid weather.) Nails trimmed once per month Bathed every 4 - 8 weeks. Teeth brushed as often as possible. Flea / Tick check: daily during prime parasite season (Spring through late Fall!) Puppy Kindergarten / Beginner Obedience Class Week 5 Homework We want your dog to understand the verbal command AND the hand signal! We also want your dogs to work for you even when there is no food in your hand! Say the verbal cue a second before the hand signal to really get your dog to think! SIT / STAND / DOWN: Say your dog’s name and the verbal cue only for either sit, stand, or down. Pause for a moment - did your dog execute the command immediately after you asked? Yes? Excellent - C & T! If not, tell them Uh - Oh and give them the hand signal! OFF: Set your dog up to politely meet strangers! We’ve been practicing having our dogs not jump up for treats, now we’re going to apply this with people and furniture. Not jumping on people: Ask your dog to sit when someone approaches. If your dog goes to jump on the person, tell them “OFF” and immediately ask for another sit. When your dog sits, C & T. If your dog doesn’t jump, C & T - great job! Getting off of furniture: If your dog is up on something he shouldn’t be on, drop a treat on the floor. When your dog jumps off to get the treat, tell him “OFF” and click, allowing your dog to get the treat. LEAVE IT: With your dog on it’s leash, show him your “leave it” item. Tell your dog to “LEAVE IT” and place the item on the ground, several inches from your foot. If your dog doesn‘t attempt to get the item, C & T! If your dog does attempt to get the item, quickly cover it with your foot and start over. DROP IT: Let your dog have a toy. Place your hand at your dog’s mouth, palm up and ready to receive the item. Does he drop it? If so, C&T. Start to add the verbal command. If he doesn’t, go back to offering another toy or food treat as practiced in week #3. How to wean your dog off of the clicker: When teaching new behaviors, we use what is called CONTINOUS REINFORCEMENT. This means that each time your dog performs a behavior, he receives a C & T. This type of reinforcement results in quicker & more consistent learning. Every time you teach your dog something new (a trick or new behavior) continuous reinforcement should be used. Once your dog has learned the behavior, he is ready for VARIABLE REINFORCEMENT. This means that each time your dog performs a behavior, he may receive a C & T or a release word. A release word is a marker to tell your dog he did something right. This is what will take the place of the clicker. Instead of C & T, you will give your release word and verbal / physical praise. Your dog will work for you better because he will never be sure what he is going to get! Things to remember and other training tips: When to use CONTINOUS REINFORCEMENT (CLICK AND TREAT): If your dog is still uncertain about a behavior. In a new place, around new people, or other distractions. When teaching any new behavior. When to use VARIABLE REINFORCMENT (RELEASE WORD): When your dog is consistent in a behavior in every setting (home, outside, and with distractions.) If your dog seems to be bored with a behavior. Either C & T or use your release word - NOT BOTH! Be unpredictable for your dog. Don’t follow any set pattern! Don’t use any word for your release word that you say in normal conversation! Everyone in the family should use the same release word. Some things to remember: This is only the beginning stages of your dog’s training. They have had kindergarten, and it is your responsibility to take them all the way through college! Many dogs will be perfect companions after just one or two obedience classes (as long as you’ve done your homework at home and are consistent!), while others need life-long training. It really depends on your dog’s breed(s), personality, activity level, and relationship with your family. If you start having any issues with your dog, consider bringing them back to class. Sometimes, just a little refresher goes a long way! Some future class options: AGILITY: A pre-determined obstacle course where you complete with your dog. Do you have a dog who loves to jump on furniture, over logs, etc? Do you have a dog who has a lot of energy? Or is your dog cautious of new surrounding, noises, movement, etc? TRY AGILITY! Agility is one of the most enjoyable canine sports for you and your dog. Agility work builds confidence, exercises an active dog, builds muscle tone, helps with weight loss, and is all around fun. We recommend agility for all dogs - it will help strengthen your bond with your dog as well! RALLY-O: A pre-determined obstacle & obedience course you complete with your dog. Rally-O is a mix of agility and obedience work. It helps strengthen obedience skills in a more relaxing setting than traditional obedience. Your dog will be introduced to several obstacles and you are encouraged to praise, pat, and reward your dog throughout the course. Rally is both mentally and physically stimulating for you and your dog! GRADUATE OBEDIENCE: The next level of obedience class. Does your dog need to continue with obedience? Ask yourself if your dog is responding to your commands in every situation and every time. If you would like your dog to obey you better, then consider signing up for the Graduate class. We cover all of the basic commands and incorporate “real world” work - such as outside work, additional distractions, additional distance, and duration of commands. Every dog should consider taking Grad class - especially during their adolescence! CANINE GOOD CITIZEN (CGC) PREP: A 10-part test regulated by the AKC. Do you envision doing therapy work with your dog? Do you want to travel and take your dog with you? Do you need a discount on your homeowners insurance or own a “blacklisted” breed of dog? Consider the CGC - a 10-part test open to purebred and mixed breed dogs. The CGC focuses on good manners - is your dog an upstanding member of the community? The CGC is easily attainable with training to polite, friendly, and socialized canines! 30/30 CLASS: The best of both worlds! The 30/30 class is 30 minutes of agility and 30 minutes of obedience. Work at you & your dog’s own level - can’t decide weather to continue with obedience or try agility? Then try 30/30! Puppy Kindergarten / Beginner Obedience Class Week 6 Homework STAY: The goal of this exercise is to teach your dog to stay in place. Stay will eventually mean to your dog “Stay there, and don’t move until I release you!” To work on stay, remove all food from your hand. Ask your dog to sit, stand, or down. Instead of C & T, pause and quietly stand in place for a few seconds. If your dog holds position, C & T! OBEDIENCE REVIEW: By now, your dog should be working at this level: SIT / STAND / DOWN: Your dog should understand both the verbal & hand commands, and offer the behavior the first time asked. STAND FOR EXAM: Your dog should be comfortable being handled while standing up. CONTROLLED WALKING: Your dog should be able to walk nicely with few distractions. ATTENTION: Your dog should give you solid eye contact with distractions for 15 seconds. RECALL: Your dog should come to you when you call him with few distractions. OFF: Your dog should understand not to jump up on you for treats or toys. WAIT: Your dog should understand how to wait politely for food, treats, and toys. DOGGIE MASSAGE: Your dog should be comfortable with you handling their entire body. GENTLE RESTRAINT: Your dog should be comfortable being restrained by you & strangers. SURFACE TRAINING: Your dog should be comfortable walking on all different surfaces. COLLAR WORK: Your dog should be comfortable having his collar handled and grabbed. DROP IT: Your dog should be willing to drop any object in their mouth. MEETING & GREETING: Your dog should be able to politely meet everyone - no jumping! LEAVE IT: Your dog should be beginning to understand “Leave it” and focusing on the reward. TRICKS! SPIN: Teach your dog to spin in a circle. Put a food lure at your dog’s nose and slowly lead your dog in a circle. C & T as soon as your dog completes ONE circle! Practice in both directions. GIVE PAW: Teach your dog to shake. (No food lure) Gently tap or touch behind the dog’s ankle when dog lifts foot, C & T! To teach “High Five”, move your hand up toward dog’s shoulder to encourage them to lift their paw higher. C & T! Keep working until you can hold your hand above dog’s head and they extend their paw up to meet your hand. CRAWL: A belly crawl across the floor. Get dog in a DOWN- hold a food lure at dog’s nose (keep food toward the ground!) and slowly move lure away from the dog. If your dog stays down and moves forward, C & T! Gradually increase the amount of forward movement before you C & T. ROLLOVER: Roll all the way over! Get dog in a DOWN - hold food lure near dog’s nose and lure his head back over his bum. Go very slowly so dog can follow lure - if dog goes on his side, C & T! Then try again and lure dog onto his back - C & T! Eventually get to where dog will roll entirely over. Work this one slowly, and C & T for every inch of improvement. BANG: Play dead! Get dog in a DOWN - hold food lure near dog’s nose and lure his head back over his bum (like the first step of Rollover!) When dog goes on his side, C & T! Puppy Kindergarten / Beginner Obedience Class Week 7: Performance Review This week, your instructor will evaluate your progress in everything covered in the first (6) weeks of class. You will be sent home with a progress sheet, that will let you know what you and your dog excelled in, and what may need a bit more work. There is no homework for week 7 - except for your continued commitment to loving and training your dog! Thank you for taking a class with Go Play! and we hope to see you and your dog very soon! Remember, anything can be a training situation - a crowd of people, the dog park, etc. The more you work your dog in new and different places, the better overall results you will get! Get creative and HAVE FUN WITH YOUR DOG!!!!! |
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